Splendor and destitution of Brighton Beach: life of legendary ‘Little Odesa’

Brighton Beach is probably the most well-known Russian-speaking community in the United States. It’s nicknamed “Little Odesa.” According to various estimates, some 50,000 to 70,000 Russian-speaking people currently live here.

A correspondent for ForumDaily spent one day with Brighton Beach locals to see how this little “Russian World” is living.

Russian-Ukrainian symbiosis

One needs to travel dozens of subway stations between the New York City downtown and Brighton Beach. An hour-long ride will take you to the community that speaks either Russian or Ukrainian. Here, the mixed English-Russian words can be heard often. The most popular now are ‘otcharget,’ ‘naslicet,’ and ‘chetyre ninety nine.’*

(* To charge, to slice, 4.99)

Similarly to any village, everybody knows everyone here. As long as you lived in Brighton for just a few weeks, everybody will greet you as if you were a local. Area stores often play Russian hits, including famous songs about Brighton, Broadway, and other NYC areas, in Russian.

Any information can be found in Russian here in Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov.

“The first Russian-speaking immigration wave brought Jews here in 1970s. Then in 1972, the Soviet Union allowed its Jews immigrating to Israel and ‘unite with their families.’ The second wave came in 1990s. Many people from Odesa, Ukraine, arrived here. During that time, almost half a million Ukrainians came to Brighton Beach. This is confirmed by archive documents still kept in the Central Library of Brooklyn. Odesa residents love the sea, that’s why they chose Brighton with its access to the Atlantic Ocean and a waterfront to walk along.

In any situation, the suit must fit

Yakov Lyubarov is one of the brightest representatives of the first immigration wave. He came to Brighton Beach from Moscow in 1978. Lyubarov has been a fan of good clothes since childhood, so he became a Brighton star straight away. The outfits of the Moscow good liver include numerous stylish pieces: suits by Gaultier and Versace, shoes by Dolce & Gabbana.

Yakov Lyubarov is always dressed to the nines. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Lyubarov fled the USSR’s communism society to New York with his wife and a little daughter. They received their green cards right at the airport.

“When we came, there were almost no Russians here. Maybe just a few families from Israel and Russia. We were helped by Nayana organization, and later I got a job with an air conditioning repair company,” Lyubarov says.

The life started getting better. Later, Yakov worked as a taxi driver, then got into the jewelry business. He could have moved to Manhattan, but Brighton is now his home. He remembers obtaining his long-awaited U.S. passport and celebrations with his friends on the occasion of becoming the citizen. Sure enough, they were drinking Russian vodka.

“I want to tell you that Brighton Beach was blooming in 1980-1990s. That’s when the intelligence from Leningrad and Moscow came here. Of course, there were migrants from Odesa. However, after the Soviet Union collapsed, different people started arriving. Let me put it this way — they were not that high-quality,” he says.

It’s been long since Yakov obtained his American citizenship and retired. He says he’s happy with his life.

“My pension payment is not that high: $700. But I also rent out my taxi driver’s license. We have our own condo apartment. I never thought of returning to my homeland. I’ve lived most of my life here in Brighton Beach. I could only visit the capital as a guest,” Yakov says smiling.

Several years ago Yakov Lyubarov bought an apartment in Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Yakov loves traveling with his wife. Usually they sail on cruises in Europe. France and Italy are a paradise for fashion lover Lyubarov. He never returns from vacations without some new clothing. And the Brighton Beach resident loves telling funny jokes.

“A guy asks a girl: ‘Did you sleep with Pet’ka for love or for money?’ — ‘Of course, for love! Three rubles is not money!’” he says laughing.

At the end of our conversation Yakov Lyubarov invited tourists coming to New York City to visit his beloved sightseeing place, Brighton Beach, as well.

Life, love, and tears

Here in Brighton, everything is Russian: drugstores, restaurants, and stores. All year round at the Brighton Beach subway station you can meet Ukraine native Maria Chernenko. She’s been selling food on the street for five years now, whatever the weather. Maria told the correspondent for ForumDaily how she ended up in Brighton Beach.

Maria Chernenko has been selling sweets for locals for five years. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Maria Chernenko won the green card lottery and arrived in New York in 2011. In her hometown of Ternopil, Ukraine she left behind her children and grandchildren. Every year she travels to visit them, and returns to Brighton Beach with tears in her eyes.

“I miss them so much. I earn money and send it to them. This helps them a lot. I dream of receiving a U.S. passport so that my kids had a choice. I am not sure whether they would want to live here,” Maria says.

It took her a while to get used to local mentality. Maria has gotten immune to the grumble by Russian-speaking retirees.

“I see different kinds of shoppers, some are really demanding. Everyone wants to show off. I got used to it. At first, I thought I would go deaf. Here comes a train again. But one adapts to anything,” Chernenko says of her working conditions.

Maria is content with her wages, but says she would like to earn more than $10/hour.

“Our store owner is OK. In winter, she gives me a heater here to the street to keep me warm. You know how cold it might get here. Terrible. But it’s OK, we’ll get through it,” she says.

At this moment during our conversation, a man approached Maria. He got out of the store and asked her what she was talking about. The woman sounded as if she was blaming herself and responded briskly: it’s OK, go away.

However, the man persisted and made his own statement.

“Now, go away, leave. This is my woman. My love. What do you want?” he asked the ForumDaily correspondent with a menacing look.

That’s how our chat with Maria ended. A moment after, she shortly waved us goodbye and dived into selling chocolate bars.

Brighton Beach residents are picking free food that is about to expire. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Boris is also a salesman. He doesn’t sell sweets, but books from his own library. Russian classics don’t sell well, the man says.

“Don’t ask me ‘How is it going?’ It’s bad. No business. No money. At least I have a roof above!” he says and points to his head.

Boris has been selling books for 20 years now. This is his only source of income, the man says. But he was not ready to elaborate.

“This is it. Enough. Enough about me. We’ll get through with whatever means. I will not tell you my last name. OK, guys, let me work now,” Boris said and dived into his book.

Brighton Beach residents are picking free food that is about to expire. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

One can always hear Russian songs live in Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Local residents say that Brighton is a very versatile community. It’s as easy to spot luxury SUVs and posh sportcars here. You can meet a bagger asking for money next to women wearing mink coats or girls spotting fashion Italian brands and high heels.

A female resident of Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Numerous stores selling fur are available to women in Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

A business lady in Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

By the way, some ladies are not ashamed to get out of a beauty shop with perming and curlers in their hair.

Inga Sokolnikova has been working to make Brighton Beach girls look more beautiful for 13 years now. She is a beautician. Inga moved to the U.S. with her family 13 years ago, exactly to the Russian district.

“I am from the Soviet school of cosmetology, so my clients are mostly Russian-speaking. I have received a license here and can work with Americans, too. But I love our people more, they are closer to me. Russians are always willing to help those who have just recently arrived in America,” says Inga.

Beautician Inga loves Brighton Beach. Photo courtesy of Inga Sokolnikova.

Starting from scratch was not an easy endeavor for the Kyiv native. Now Inga owns a beauty shop. Sokolnikova says her clientele is very versatile.

“Demanding and mean clients fall off by themselves. I love my job, and try to act with understanding. However, there was this unpleasant case recently. I had a woman served in my salon; she bought all procedures and paid with a credit card. The fee was about $700. After two weeks I received an e-mail from the bank that the amount could not be charged,” Inga says.

It turned out that the client decided to cheat and blocked the credit card. Inga is currently searching for the fraudster with the help of her lawyer. Despite this unpleasing situation, Inga still loves living in Brighton Beach.

“My husband works here in Brighton, too. I have not a single desire to leave this area for a different community or state. I love Brighton. And the people! I love looking at them and listening to them. And the beach is right here. It’s beautiful,” Inga speaks with a delight of her community.

Many of Inga’s compatriots love Brighton as much. However, some of them, like local chess players, are not too willing to talk with reporters. As soon as the sun rises above the Atlantic Ocean, these men from Odesa, the lovers of board games, show up on the street.

“What should we say? Here we are, making jokes, playing, enjoying the life. Everything is fine here. Everything’s like in Odesa,” one of the players says laughingly.

Board games fans at the Brighton Beach waterfront. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Real estate property in Brighton Beach

Brighton Beach is not a place for retirees. There are young people living in “Little Odesa,” too. Most of them are young people who have recently arrived and started a new life in New York City. Brighton is the place to find the first illegal job and rent a place without documents. The lease will cost $1,000-$1,200 on average for a studio or a one-bedroom apartment.

In Brighton, Russian-speaking girls can always find their first job and a place for rent. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

At Brighton Beach subway station. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Some of the young families not only rent real estate property in Brighton Beach, but also buy it. In most cases, they are motivated by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean. Real estate agent Sonia Ostrovskaya says that Brighton is one of the best neighborhoods to buy condominium apartments.

“This type of real estate property has its peculiarities, but anyway, you assume ownership of the apartment. Another benefit is that you can also buy a parking space that can be used, sold, or rented,” the agent says.

Her clients include people from Russia and Ukraine. The requirements differ from client to client, Sonia says. Currently, Brighton is the place to go for both elite real estate and affordable housing.

“The prices on average range from $550,000 to $800,000. Luxury real estate might cost $2 million. For instance, we are currently selling a three-bedroom condo apartment for $1 million. The price includes a parking spot as well. This one is in the well-known Oceana Condominium & Club,” Sonia Ostrovskaya told Forum Daily.

The real estate offers are abundant. Sonia says many senior people are moving to sunny Florida and buying houses there.

Residents of the elite Oceana Condominium & Club. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

In summer Brighton Beach turns into a real resort. This is a perfect time for any American to get a closer look at Russian culture and traditions. They can buy souvenirs like an ear-flapped ‘ushanka’ hat or a Cheburashka, and try some Ukrainian borsch for lunch. The latter is served in legendary restaurants “Tatiana,” “Volna,” “Primorsky.” The website of the “Tatiana” restaurant reads that you will definitely enjoy visiting this place, “where vodka and cognac flow a fountain.” There are more popular places in the area, like “Chinar,” “Cupola Samarkanda,” “Kavkaz,” and many others.

Former correspondent for The Washington Post Robert Kaiser is a frequent guest here in Brighton.

“Of course, I love Russians. You have the most beautiful women in Russia. Brighton is this small Russia. I even learn some Russian here. And your cuisine is a culinary masterpiece,” Kaiser told the correspondent for ForumDaily.

Russian restaurants awaiting their clients. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

A beach in Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

One can always meet some locals at the Brighton Beach waterfront. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Brighton Beach waterfront. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Residents of the Russian community of Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

Residents of Brighton Beach waiting for the summer. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

If you miss the chance to try Russian dishes in a restaurant, you can always buy some Olivier or “dressed herring” salads in local food stores. They are sold there the year round.

Russian store in Brighton Beach. Photo by Pavel Terekhov

For Russian people, residing in Brighton Beach is like living at home without leaving the U.S.

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